神之水滴『十一門徒 夕陽』釀酒師Raul Bobet力作 －Castell d' Encus Taleia 2012 (RP: 92) / 2015 (Guía Peñin: 93) / 2017 (RP:92) / 2018 (RP:93) (JR:16+)

酒經月刊創辦人劉致新(劉校長)喝過Taleia後曾比喻爲名曲"The Sound of Silence", 彷彿能聽見寂靜的聲音！

於西班牙加泰隆尼亞，比利牛斯山脈分區的Costers del Segre產區，Raul Bobet曾在大名鼎鼎的Torres酒莊擔任主釀酒師，釀酒期間受到啓發，期望可以不受全球温室效應影响下繼續釀出心中最完美的酒。其後Raul Bobet於海拔1,000米高的Talarn村開始他的釀酒大計，無意中發現酒莊旁修道院竟然仍保留了僧侶曾在這裡釀酒的痕跡，包括多個12世紀時以人手開鑿的石窖，自然而然便還原古法釀造方法，起初只用少量葡萄作試驗，後來大部分葡萄也用這石窖發酵，然後再到不銹鋼桶或橡木桶陳年。

這數十年來能釀出令飲家驚嘆的葡萄酒全因Raul的不斷努力和精益求精，他年青時是工程學科出身的的，所以他亦設計了可再生能源(地熱能發電)推動整個酒莊的電力，非常環保。另外Raul 喜愛哲學和冥想，他的產品皆以梵文或以葡萄生長的地方命名。他的理念很簡單 :

"我們希望釀造出風格非常清晰的葡萄酒，以保持新鮮度為支柱，避免過度成熟和過度萃取。 我們追求優雅和微妙，但又不放棄葡萄酒的複雜性和圓潤感。 毫無疑問，從這個意義上說，葡萄發揮主要作用。"

他的理念看似簡單，但實際操作上卻需要在葡萄種植和釀造過程等細節上花上無比的心思和管理能力，幕後亦有著熟練的團隊協助，才可以在不可預料的天氣下仍能釀出喝一口便令人感動的酒。

Castell d'Encus 毫無疑問是近來世界舞台上最令人振奮的西班牙酒莊。而Raul Bobet亦是有份負責Ferrer Bobet酒莊的人，在那裡他與葡萄酒發燒友Sergi Ferrer-Salat合作，展現出另一高山Priorat酒的獨特風味。

此酒因為沒有經過淨化，所以會出現沉澱物。而因為沒有二氧化硫，所以應保存在清涼地方避免不必要演化。酒內酸度令此酒比一般自然葡萄有更強陳年能力，只需把酒保存於適當的條件和溫度下。

產地：
西班牙-加泰羅尼亞

種類：
白葡萄酒

葡萄品種：
Sauvignon Blanc、Semillon

釀造：
80% 的酒都於小型的 25 hl 及 6 hl 缸內發酵。20% 的酒在新法國橡木桶發酵，陳年期間有過有少許酒渣攪拌。此酒最少於瓶內陳年5個月。

品酒筆記：
品嘗Taleia，特別是2013年像聽到大自然的韻律，賽美蓉輕輕在杯中發出美妙的樂韻彷如吹竽彈瑟般和諧，礦物感經由舌尖往後延伸像泉流激中石板般清翠，充份展示出大地的紋理和天地融合得井然有序。

2012年 (Robert Parker's rating: 92 points)
2012 Taleia 是Sauvignon Blanc加上少量Semillon的混釀，帶有淡淡的青草和番茄藤的味道，非常新鮮，類似Sancerre而不是Marlborough的風格。具有微妙的香氣以及出色的潛在酸度和礦物感。 一款上乘的高山白葡萄酒，陳年時會顯得優雅。

2015年
香氣非常奢華，帶有茴香和新鮮採摘的番茄葉等草本香氣，非常細膩而微妙。這是一款以禮貌的方式進行探索的葡萄酒。口感非常清爽不甜，帶有優雅的礦物感和悠長的餘韻。

2017(Robert Parker's rating: 92 points)
2017 Taleia來自一個氣候乾燥、產量低的年份，但葡萄酒的濃度更高。一半的酒在法國橡木桶中陳年六個月，仍然很純粹，具有透明的個性，表現出橡木融合得很好。口感緊湊，但2017年絕對是一個較為成熟的年份，口感圓潤，平衡且風味集中，酸度非常好，餘韻吸引，幾乎帶鹹感。2018 年 7 月裝瓶13,200瓶和270大瓶(1.5升)。

2018 (Robert Parker's rating: 92 points)
2018年是涼爽的一年，2018年的Taleia成熟度和酒精度較低，酸度高於 2017年。它色淡、年輕、害羞、乾淨、專注，口感清脆，帶有一些甘味和充滿活力的酸度。在瓶中陳年會更佳。非常出色，讓人垂涎欲滴。2019年6月裝了17,700瓶和190大瓶(1.5升)。

Raul Bobet’s groundbreaking wines from the Pyrenees subzone of the Costers del Segre appellation, are produced in the village of Talarn at 1,000 metres altitude. The wines are named with Sanskrit words or after the places where grapes are grown. Nowadays most of the wines are fermented in the 12th century stone lagares from the property. It has to be seen to be believed. However, the process is not the most important thing, what is really important is that the results are superb. These are some of the most exciting new wines throughout Spain. And Bobet, the ex-Torres enquiring mind, is also responsible for the breathtaking Priorats from the Ferrer-Bobet winery, his joint venture with entrepreneur and wine lover Sergi Ferrer-Salat.

Country of Origin:
Spain / Catalonia

Type:
White/Blanc (Still)

Grape Varieties:
Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon

Vinification
80% of the wine was fermented in small, 25hl and 6hl tanks. 20% of the wine was fermented in new French oak barrels with some lees stirring during ageing. This wine was aged in bottle for at least 5 months.

Tasting Notes:
Vintage 2012 (Robert Parker's rating: 92 points)
The 2012 Taleia is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc with a little Semillon which has bare hints of grass and tomato vine, with great freshness, akin to a Sancerre rather than a Marlborough, with subtle aromas and great underlying acidity and minerality. A superb, mineral, mountain white that should age with grace. 

Vintage 2015
The bouquet is very extravagant with herbal notes such as fennel and freshly picked tomato leaves, very fine and subtle. A wine that doesn't pander, but wants to be explored in a polite way. Wonderfully dry on the palate, with elegant mineral components and a long finish.

Vintage 2017 (Robert Parker's rating: 92 points)
The 2017 Taleia, from a dry and low-yielding year that delivered more concentrated wines. Half of the volume matured in French oak barrels for six months. It's still very pure, with a transparent personality, showing very nice integration of the oak. The palate is compact, but 2017 is definitely a riper vintage, delivering a rounder wine that is balanced and has focused flavors, very nice acidity and a tasty, almost salty finish. 13,200 bottles and 270 magnums were filled in July 2018.

Vintage 2018 (Robert Parker's rating: 93 points)
2018 was a cooler year, and the 2018 Taleia is less ripe and has less alcohol and more acidity than the 2017 I tasted next to it. It's pale, young, shy, clean and focused and has a sharp palate with some bitter flavors and vibrant acidity. This feels undeveloped, very primary, in need of some bottle age. It's very tasty and makes you salivate. 17,700 bottles and 190 magnums were filled in June 2019.

Music to go with:

Erik Satie - Gymnopédie No. 1