ESS00027
HK$390.00
世上最強的高山氣泡酒,古法Ancestral Method
瓶中陳年60個月才推出市面 (Aged in bottle for 60 months)
Raul Bobet是傳奇人物,亦是西班牙前Torres的幕後主腦,他所創造的世界和對西班牙酒界的影響是前所未見的,他對全球溫室效應的擔憂亦令很多人也仿效他上高山栽種,但他的Riesling,Semillon 和Pinot Noir至今仍是會令人眼界大開,將西班牙精彩的另一面表現出來。
Taika是獨一無二的,當它到我們手上的時候,確實很難歸類,它不算是Cava,葡萄也一丁點沒有碰到傳統Cava品種或香檳種類,而是在波爾多或獵人谷發揚光大的的Semillon和Sauvignon Blanc。
Semillon在Costers del Segre的庇庫牛斯山千米上變得非常複雜,礦物感並不是海洋派的專利,山中的礦物樣獨當一面,涼快乾爽晝夜溫差對Semillon的酸度平衡,成熟果香和蜂蠟般的珍貴氣息的發展有極佳的貢獻。唯一要擔心遲來的寒流,霜降和動物侵襲農作物,但在山中居住這也是平常事。這是一支充斥著西班牙東北風的珍品,珍藏亦可,開瓶略為醒酒20-30分鐘風味更佳。
This is serious stuff made by the legendary Raul Bobet from Spain, it is hard to come by these days. The Semillon gives the cool climate complexity and body, mineral, honey, bee wax, stone fruits, where the Sauvignon Blanc gives the zesty, passionfruit, cut grass and crispiness. A perfect blend of the two with grape fermented its sugar by itself so no dosage is added, elevage further like top Champagnes with extremely fine bubbles. A truely remarkable and unique sparkling wine from North Eastern Spain that can age and also be enjoy now with a bit of aeration.
Castell d'Encus位於西班牙加泰隆尼亞,比利牛斯山脈分區的Costers del Segre產區,Raul Bobet曾在大名鼎鼎的Torres酒莊擔任主釀酒師,釀酒期間受到啓發,期望可以不受全球温室效應影响下繼續釀出心中最完美的酒。其後Raul Bobet於海拔1,000米高的Talarn村開始他的釀酒大計,無意中發現酒莊旁修道院竟然仍保留了僧侶曾在這裡釀酒的痕跡,包括多個12世紀時以人手開鑿的石窖,自然而然便還原古法釀造方法,起初只用少量葡萄作試驗,後來大部分葡萄也用這石窖發酵,然後再到不銹鋼桶或橡木桶陳年。
這數十年來能釀出令飲家驚嘆的葡萄酒全因Raul的不斷努力和精益求精,他年青時是工程學科出身的的,所以他亦設計了可再生能源(地熱能發電)推動整個酒莊的電力,非常環保。另外Raul 喜愛哲學和冥想,他的產品皆以梵文或以葡萄生長的地方命名。他的理念很簡單 :
"我們希望釀造出風格非常清晰的葡萄酒,以保持新鮮度為支柱,避免過度成熟和過度萃取。 我們追求優雅和微妙,但又不放棄葡萄酒的複雜性和圓潤感。 毫無疑問,從這個意義上說,葡萄發揮主要作用。"
他的理念看似簡單,但實際操作上卻需要在葡萄種植和釀造過程等細節上花上無比的心思和管理能力,幕後亦有著熟練的團隊協助,才可以在不可預料的天氣下仍能釀出喝一口便令人感動的酒。
Castell d'Encus 毫無疑問是近來世界舞台上最令人振奮的西班牙酒莊。而Raul Bobet亦是有份負責Ferrer Bobet酒莊的人,在那裡他與葡萄酒發燒友Sergi Ferrer-Salat合作,展現出另一高山Priorat酒的獨特風味。
此酒因為沒有經過淨化,所以會出現沉澱物。而因為沒有二氧化硫,所以應保存在清涼地方避免不必要演化。酒內酸度令此酒比一般自然葡萄有更強陳年能力,只需把酒保存於適當的條件和溫度下。
產地:
西班牙-加泰羅尼亞
種類:
氣泡酒
葡萄品種:
Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc
瓶中陳年60個月才推出市面 (Aged in bottle for 60 months)
釀造:
以10kg 人手收成全部酒莊自家葡萄。釀造於 25hL 的小缸低溫進行,當餘糖到達一定程度時而二氧化碳份量足夠時便停止,所以酒內沒有加進任何糖分,所有糖分來自葡萄本身。
品酒筆記:
2012 Vintage
(Robert Parker's rating: 90+)
2012年的Taïka大部分採用Sauvignon Blanc釀造,因為釀酒師Bobet祖傳的方法會削弱葡萄的品種特徵、微小氣泡,同時酒渣帶來的香氣也會減少。它不甜…低酒精,酸度良好。大約一半的葡萄是Semillon。有微妙的酒渣、酵母和粉狀的單寧,口感清脆,還有一些烤麵包和蜂蜜的味道。它非常年輕,看看它在瓶中陳年會如何一定很有趣。出產了2,300瓶。
2013 Vintage
(Robert Parker's rating: 91-93)
2013 Taïka酸度更活潑,比2012年涼爽得多,更優雅,更有鮮明的個性,酒糟的影響也不太明顯。真的很華麗,我認為它可以在酒瓶內變得非常優雅。十月除渣,在翌年七月品嘗。大約出產2,500瓶。
2014 Vintage
(Robert Parker's rating: 94)
2014 Taïka酸度高,pH 值極低。芳香濃郁,但沒有Sauvignon Blanc的典型香氣。感覺與傳統方法或香檳法的氣泡酒一樣好,具有非常幼細的小氣泡,賦予質感。它細膩、細緻、平衡,充滿青春和活力,可在瓶中繼續發展。餘韻帶鹹感。這就是酒莊的風格:純粹、優雅、平衡、乾淨、剔透。它在瓶中陳年了六年,是獨一無二的氣泡酒。它應該發展得很好,富陳年潛質。出產了3,700瓶。
Raul Bobet’s groundbreaking wines from the Pyrenees subzone of the Costers del Segre appellation, are produced in the village of Talarn at 1,000 metres altitude. The wines are named with Sanskrit words or after the places where grapes are grown. Nowadays most of the wines are fermented in the 12th century stone lagares from the property. It has to be seen to be believed. However, the process is not the most important thing, what is really important is that the results are superb. These are some of the most exciting new wines throughout Spain. And Bobet, the ex-Torres enquiring mind, is also responsible for the breathtaking Priorats from the Ferrer-Bobet winery, his joint venture with entrepreneur and wine lover Sergi Ferrer-Salat.
Country of Origin:
Spain / Catalonia
Type:
Sparkling
Grape varieties:
Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc
Vinification:
Hand harvest in small boxes of 10 kg of grapes originated exclusively from the estate. Vinification was produced in small tanks of 25 hl at low temperature. Fermentation was stopped when the wine had the appropriate residual sugar to generate enough CO2 in the bottle so there isn’t any sugar added for the bottle fermentation, all the sugar comes from the grapes themselves. Aged in bottle for 60 months.
Tasting Notes:
2012 Vintage
(Robert Parker's rating: 90+)
2012 Taïka was produced with a majority of Sauvignon Blanc, because Bobet believes the ancestral method will diminish the varietal character of the grape and small bubbles, while at the same time there will be less autolysis aromas. It's bone dry...lowish alcohol and very good acidity. Approximately half of the grapes were Semillon. There are subtle notes of autolysis, yeasts and something mealy, with a sharp palate and some toasty and honeyed flavors. This is very young, it will be interesting to see how it ages. 2,300 bottles produced.
2013 Vintage
(Robert Parker's rating: 91-93)
2013 Taïka is a lot higher in acidity, a much cooler year than 2012, more elegant, with more of a distinct character with marked personality, and the effect of the lees is a lot less evident. It's really gorgeous, and I think it can turn into something really beautiful in bottle. The wine will be disgorged in October and I tasted it in mid July. Some 2,500 bottles.
2014 Vintage
(Robert Parker's rating: 94)
2014 Taïka s bone-dry, with high acidity and extremely low pH. It's aromatic but doesn't have the typical notes of the Sauvignon Blanc. This feels every bit as good as the traditional or Champenois method of sparkling wines, and it has very integrated and small bubbles that give texture. It has finesse and nuance and is balanced, with youth and energy to continue developing in bottle. It has a salty finish. This is the house style: pure, elegant, balanced, clean and crystalline whites. It was kept in bottle for six years. This is an ancestral sparkling that is unique. It should develop nicely and for a very long time. 3,700 bottles produced.